![]() ![]() Metal models like the Parker may help a little more, with better weight and balance. Models that have the ability to use stiffer custom blades may help a bit. That can make the blade edge unstable (not to mention uneven blade exposure) and overly flexible. Many of these razors use a DE blade cut in half. Plastic models like the Shavette are very light and don’t provide the heft and balance of a real straight razor. Shaving with one of these razors may actually be more difficult than shaving with a genuine straight razor. But they’re popular with barbers because there is no blade maintenance, and state or local law may require them anyway. These are often termed “shavette’s” after the Dovo Shavette and while they seem like a less expensive option and don’t require sharpening or stropping, they may not give you the straight razor experience you’re looking for–they just don’t have the weight and balance of a real straight razor. You may have seen razors that look like a straight razor but use replaceable blades. What About Replaceable Blade Straight Razors? Be aware that razors produced in Pakistan and China tend to be poorly made, with soft metals that won’t hold an edge, though Gold Dollar and Double Arrow razors (both made in China) have their fans. Anything less and the odds are you’re buying a razor-shaped letter opener. Count on spending at least $75 for a new, sharpened straight razor. If you don’t see that term assume that it’s not (contact the seller for clarification if you are interested): trust me, you don’t want to go about learning to sharpen razors yet–that’s a whole different animal. And be sure you look for a razor that is labeled as “shave ready”. Use your favorite search engine to look for discussions and reviews and you will soon find them. Buying A Straight Razorĭo yourself a favor and buy your first straight razor from an established, reputable source. Selecting a straight razor is to strike a balance between control, stability, and tactile feedback. Stainless steel is easier to care for and might hold a cutting edge a bit longer. Carbon steel is more flexible but can rust if it’s not properly maintained. ![]() The two most common metals used in straight razors are carbon steel and stainless steel. Thinner grinds such as extra hollow provide more tactile feedback and some say the are easier to re-sharpen, but they also can bend or spring more easily, making a consistent shave harder to accomplish. On the other hand it provides less feedback to the shaver which could nicks or cuts more likely. Some say that thicker grinds such as a quarter hollow are easier for the new user to shave with as it is more stable. Grinds get progressively thinner until you reach the full-hollow–or even extra hollow–type. The wedge type is the thickest, least flexible ground type. If you read straight razor descriptions you’ll often see references to the grind. Today most new straight razors have a simple rounded point or a square point.įREE EBOOK FROM SHARPOLOGIST: How To Get A Better Shave No Matter What Products You Are Using Most of these variations are in vintage razors. The end of the blade, the point, may have a variety of shapes including a Barbers Notch or a Spanish Point for maneuvering around mustaches, a French point, a Spike point, or a Square point. Generally speaking the smaller widths provide more control than the wider ones. Blades can come in different sizes, ranging from one inch all the way down to ⅜ inch. Let’s take a closer look at the width of the blade edge. You may see some differences in labelling–like where the tang is– but these seem to be the most common descriptions. The major parts of a straight razor include the scales, the razor’s blade edge, the point, the spine, the shank, and the tang. There are some variations, mostly in vintage razors, but here are the most common things you’ll find. Straight Razor Basicsįirst lets look at the major parts of a straight razor and the basics of their design. To tell you the truth though, I’m not very good at using a straight razor. Ever since I started doing shaving videos I’ve been getting emails requesting one about straight razors. ![]()
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